02/11/08 - Cascarones, Part 2

Dear Jess, Darren & Girls: In Mexico there is a tradition among the children that proceeds Lent. I call it the "Egg on the head" tradition. (But I later learned that the eggs are called "Cascarones")

What it means...I don't know. All I do know is that it looks like a lot of fun.

The weekend before Ash Wednesday, the children and teenagers run around the Jardin (the town square) with bags of eggs that have been drained then stuffed with confetti and sometimes glitter.

They take the eggs, and smash them on each other's heads. It was fun to watch. There were eggshells and confetti everywhere.

See this little kid smashing his big sister while their mom watches.

 

The children run away from each other, but you can see the smiles on their faces and you know they are having fun.

"I don't want egg on my head"

Now the little guy is smashing an egg on mama's head - and she's joyfully letting him.

Every kid has a bag full of eggs...

and lots of shells and confetti in their hair and on their clothing.

Everyone gets a chance to play.

I'm having so much fun watching that I buy a couple of eggs from the tall boy...

...and smashed one on "tuff guy's" head...

..after he smashed one on mine.

As you can see, the grounds of the Jardin are covered with shells, confetti and the colored paper that keeps the eggs closed.

This cute little girl saw how much I was enjoying myself, and came over to smash me!!!

I don't really understand the custom, and I know it sounds pretty silly. But those kids were having a ball, and no one was getting hurt. It's way that simple, poor Mexican people have fun. I hope some day you girls can come visit grandpa and I here, so that you can participate in the fun as well. 

Hope you enjoyed these photos. Will send more another time.              Love,    Mom/Judy/Emmie

02/11/08 - Candelaria and Cascarones

Dear Jess, Darren and Girls:

CANDELARIA is the special event that's held for 10 days in Benito Juarez Park. It marks the beginning of the planting and growing season in Mexico. There's no way that this one photo captures the magnificence of the display of plants, flowers and pots that were for sale. But it at least gives you an idea of what it was like there.

CASCARONES: The big boy is smashing an emptied eggshell filled with confetti over his brother's head. This tradition of gaiety proceeds Ash Wednesday.

The entire weekend before Ash Wednesday, children run all around the Jardin, trying to smash eggs on each other's heads. It'S a festive game that all seem to be enjoying.

Even the adults are involved. This little boy is smashing an egg on the head of his very willing madre.

 

As you can see, shells and confetti are everywhere...

So of course Grandpa and I have to get in on the fun!!!

After watching my enjoyment for quite some time, this cute little girl came over and smashed me with an egg. I was honored to become a real part of this sweet celebration of joy proceeding Lent.

Hopefully one of these days you will all be able to join us in this celebration.

Love,   Mom/Judy/Emmie

02/10/08 - My First Birthday in Mexico

San Miguel/2008 Blogs

Dear Jess, Darren and Girls: 

My friends at my Spanish school threw a little party for me on my birthday. Here's some

photos. I wrote down the little story of what was happening under each photo.

Above - Mario (my Spanish teacher) is playing "Feliz Cumpleanos" (Happy

Birthday in Spanish) while I listen.

A close-up of Mario.

The people from the school gather, and we sing a Mexican folk song in Spanish

(I'm holding a piece of paper with the words on it).

I'm told that it's a Mexican tradition to "bite the cake", so that's what I'm doing in the

picture above.

Now I'm wiping my mouth, after "biting" the cake, and everyone is cheering for

 me. This was my first birthday in Mexico. What a very special and meaningful birthday this was for me.

Love,  Mom/Judy/Emmie

02/09/08 - Spanish Class

 Dear friends:

At daybreak yesterday morning, my iPod and I took off for a 45 minute walk. It was delightful. Although I saw people on the streets, they were going off to work of to school, and the atmosphere was much quieter than it is during the day or in the evening. The Paroqquia, the main church in the Jardin (town square), was touched by the morning light, which made it appear pinkish. I wished I had had my camera, because the effect was absolutely gorgeous!!!

We live on the north fringe of the area called El Centro. El Centro is an old historic district with many shops, restaurants and churches. Only a small part, the Jardin, is closed to traffic. But we've been told that there's a movement underfoot to close off the entire El Centro to traffic. That would be terrific.

The nearest grocery store is perhaps a 15 minute walk from here. We've been there twice now, and we're getting a little more used to it. But it can be a challenge to 1) find the particular item we're interested in and 2) figure out which of the items in that category to buy (ex: margarine) because we're not able to read the packaging very well. I had developed a lengthy shopping list yesterday, wanting to buy all the ingredients for several meals I found in one of the cookbooks here. It turned out that accomplishing this task without falling over with nervous exhaustion was nearly impossible. After a number of sharp words between us, Rick and I decided to just purchase the basics and go home. The fact is that we've only been here 4 days. I'm sure things will get easier.

I had my first Spanish lesson in San Miguel yesterday. When I arrived, I was stunned to be handed a 6 page exam, in Spanish, to be answered in Spanish. In retrospect, it was an effective way for them to assess where each student was at. I'm proud to say that I was able to get through the first 3-1/2 pages fairly well. It got progressively more difficult (verb tenses are NOT my strong point), and I finally cried "Uncle". I was complemented by the Maesto (instructor) on how much I completed, and was put in a class with Roger, who coincidentally grew up in Pontiac, MI. Roger and his wife live somewhere in Mexico now. He is a businessman who deals with Americans, and hasn't had to learn much Spanish. Like myself, he's interested in a more intensive language experience. He's probably in his late 60's or so.

Anyway, we're the only two in our class. There are many small classes.Our Maestro's name is Mario, and he's quite good. He presented two models of learning yesterday - one was a verb tenses learning tool, and the other was a rapid speaking tool. I'd been exposed to the later, but it was good to get back to it. I think this is going to be a really good experience for me. Thursday afternoon there's a Mexican cooking class at the school that I get to go to for free. Rick needs to pay, but we get two hours of instruction, then we get to eat what we cook. A pretty good deal, I think.

Well, our internet was down this morning, so I got a late start on this. Need to leave for class in 40 minutes, so I'd better get showering and dressed. Will report more at another time.

Love,   Judit

02/09/08 - Mass and Cascarones

Dear friends and family:

It's only 4:15 a.m. (5:15 at home), and here I am, in front of my computer, ready to report on yesterday's adventures. I've been waking up extremely early each day, unable to go back to sleep. I get so excited about what the day is going to bring that I can hardly stand it. So rather than lie there, bursting with energy, here I am. Trying to summarize what's been going on the past 24 hours.

On the way to Mass yesterday morning, we passed the language school. The door happened to be opened so we went in. Long story short, I'm signed up for 2-hour-a-day Spanish classes this week, starting this morning. I'm impressed with Sara, the director, and hope this is the opportunity I've been looking for - a chance to get really comfortable speaking the language. I only signed up for a week, wanting to try it out to see if it fits for me. If not, there's a multitude of other options, including private tutors. If so, then I'll continue for as long as I'm getting something out of it. 

 

Yesterday we went to Mass at the San Francisco Church. Built in 1779 and taking 20 years to complete, construction was with donations from wealthy local families and funds from bullfights. I'm told it's a fashionable place to be buried, and has numerous plaques to that affect. The interior is a spacious neoclassical design. Very old with a very holy feel.

The Mass, of course, was in Spanish. But I picked up a Mass guide in the back of the church, and we were pleased to be able to be appropriately part of the responses.

It was heartwarming during the handshake of peace to watch the children go up on the altar to shake the priest's hand. He seemed to enjoy the experience as much as they were. After Mass kids up to age 12 or so and their families gathered around the priest for perhaps 10 minutes while he gave them a simple lesson. Although I couldn't understand most of what he said, the non-verbals indicated that this was a gentle man who loved children, and that they loved him very much.

One of the things that I love about the Mexican culture is their piousness, and how seriously they take their religion. I'm also touched by the family values that I observe each and every day...young people carefully assisting an elderly grandparent, parents lovingly playing with their children, siblings who seem to take great enjoyment in playing together, grandparents openly expressing love for their grandchildren. This is a good country, with good people.

The highlight of the day was sitting in the Jardin after Mass, and watching the children play out their ritual of breaking eggs filled with confetti over one another's head. I took a ton of photos of this joyful game.

Rick and I really wanted to examine one of the eggs close up, so I approached a family with a number of children, holding out a dollar and asking if I could buy an egg from them. The oldest boy (maybe 11?) quickly got the message, snatched my dollar and gave me an egg. I took it back to the bench where we were sitting to examine it. A couple minutes later the boy, whose mother had said something to him, came along and gave me a second egg. So Rick and I are sitting on this bench with our two eggs, enjoying the frivolity, when suddenly Rick reaches out and smashes his egg on my head. I was taken totally by surprise, and screeched so loud that everyone around us turned around and smiled. A moment later, I got my revenge. So there we both sat, our heads covered with egg shells and confetti. A few minutes later a little girl (maybe 8?) who had been watching us came up to me and smashed an egg on my head. I loved it, and had Rick take a picture of she and I together. Before she walked back to her family, she gave me another egg, which I promptly smashed over her head. What a joyful, playful time that was. Although we know that this tradition has something to do with the coming of Lent, we don't really understand the meaning. But we know that it's great fun for all ages, whether participating in the smashing or just watching. This was one of the most delightful things I've ever seen. Oh...neither Rick nor I removed the debri from our heads for the rest of the day. We wore it proudly, wanting to let the people know that we proudly participated in their charming ritual.

In addition to being the weekend preceding Ash Wednesday, it's the weekend when the locals buy their plants and flowers for the planting season. We walked over to Benito Juarez Parque, where there were thousands upon thousands of beautiful plants, flowers and pots for sale. The entire area was stunningly beautiful and alive, and I took several photos.

We had a simple lunch at a small, off-the-beaten-track cafe. We've become adventurous in our food choices, wanting to sample as much of the local cuisine as possible. And we've not been disappointed. We find that people around here are extremely friendly. We conversed with an older couple from Oregon who have been coming here for 6 or 7 years. They gave us a few tips, and told us how much we're going to love it here. I told Rick that it feels like we're retired American expatriates in training.

San Miguel is a historic town that was founded in 1542 by a Franciscan Monk. It was an important stopover on the Antiguo Camino Real, part of the silver route from Zacatecas. It's about 7,000 feet above sea level, and surrounded by mountains. The population of the large area it covers is 139,297. It's an attractive tourist destination for wealthy Mexican City residents (many of whom are here this long holiday weekend), and has a large American and Canadian expatriate community, primarily comprised of retirees. The town manages to be very tourist friendly, without compromising it's Mexican flavor. The people are friendly but not at all pushy, like many tourist areas we've been to. That's refreshing.

Oh, by the way. In one of my letters I talked about all the levels and steps in our casa. Well, I finally counted the steps inside and out - 57 in total!!! It's a good thing that we're used to climbing stairs in our home in Michigan, because there's no avoiding them here. It's definitely not an disabilities-friendly setting. But that's o.k. - it works for us.

We spent last evening at the casa of some friends of ours from Traverse City (Christie and Bob). This is their 3rd or 4th time here, they're staying for 3 months this time, and they're in the process of looking for a place to buy. They drove here with their two dogs, Gus and Phoebe. Christie gave me a lot of info about the area, and I'm looking forward to following up on many of the things we talked about. She served us a delightful array of local foods, including Jicama with lime, homemade guacamole with chips, hibiscus tea, and hibiscus quesidillas with an interesting hot pepper sauce. All very yummy and exotic tasting. 

Well, I've been composing for the better part of an hour so I'd better go. My plan is to take a long walk as soon as daybreak hits. Our 3-day- a-week maid, whom we've not met yet, will arrive at 9 a.m., then my Spanish class begins at 11 (I'm both excited and scared with anticipation). Beyond that - who knows. After rising at 4 a.m., I'm certain there will be a little afternoon siesta.

Take care. "Talk" to you tomorrow.

Love,    Judit

02/09/08 - Dear Family and Friends

02/09/08

Dear family and friends:

Although many of you have requested travel adventure reports from me, some of you have not. I put my sending list together based on those I thought might be interested as well as those who have expressed interested. So if you don't care to read impressions of our travels, that's fine. I promise that you won't be tested on what I've written. This is really as much a record for myself as it is a report for others. 

Anyway, yesterday was our first full day in San Miguel de Allende. We began our day by looking for someplace to have breakfast. We found a little place a few blocks away called Bagel Cafe. I was in my glory to have a bowl of yogurt with fresh fruit (papaya - my favorite, melon, bananas, etc) topped with granola. Rick had a scrambled egg, cheese and bacon bagel sandwich. We shared a homemade cinnamon-raisin bagel. The food, which took a long time to come, was obviously prepared from scratch. And delicious. It was somewhat costly - $16 (including tip) for this simple breakfast. However, the cafe was near the tourist-y historic district, and I've since learned that the prices from restaurant to restaurant are pretty much standard. It was certainly worth it.

After breakfast I went out to explore. Luckily I had my little map with me. For those of you who don't know, I'm extremely directionally challenged. And of course I got lost. Several times. But that was part of the adventure as far as I was concerned. And wonderful exercise with all those hills (puff puff). Logging 10,000 steps a day on my step counter isn't going to be a problem here at all.

Speaking of hills...we're at an altitiude of about 7,000 feet above sea level. It's going to take awhile to get used to this thin air, combined with the hills. Not only are we going to have quads of steel when we leave here, but lungs of iron.

Checked out the language school just a few blocks from our casa. Spoke with Sara, the director and owner. Although I didn't sign up at the time, I've decided to start classes on Monday. My plan is to try 2 hours a day, M-F for a week. If I like it, I'll continue for the 4 weeks that we're here. I'm pretty excited about the opportunity, because being able to speak the language fairly comfortably has been a long term goal of mine for a long time.

Also checked out the swimming pool, a few blocks up a VERY steep hill from here. Although Rick and I were able to get into the building, we couldn't find anyone to talk to about joining. It's a 25 yard lap pool, which is a good thing. And it looked like it was in the process of being cleaned, which is also a good thing because it was needed. But the fact that it seemed deserted on a Saturday afternoon...well I just don't know. Brought my fins, cap and goggles with me, had planned to swim, but we shall see...It didn't look particularly promising.

This happens to be a holiday weekend, and it seems like many of the well-to-do locals who have 2nd homes here are in town. It's also the weekend before Ash Wednesday. Mexicans are very religious - usually Catholic - people. They also love to celebrate, and there's many celebrations going on. The big one is something called "Carnival", which is reminiscent of Mardi Gras. Last evening we walked down to the town square where we watched musical performances by different amateur groups (some of them very good) under the gazebo. There was also a clown performing and he drew quite a crowd. His show was very audience-interactive. 

There's an interesting tradition among the young people here, from about the ages of 8 to 16. They were carrying around baggies full of eggs full of confetti and smashing them on the heads of their friends and family. We sat down to watch a couple of groups doing this, and they were having a ball. We don't understand how they got the confetti into the eggshells. I would have liked to have asked one of them to let me look at their egg. But I was afraid I might have gotten it smashed onto my head so I didn't. Anyway, it was great fun to watch. 

Another observation: The women and girls were carrying around baskets with ornately dressed dolls inside. I think perhaps they were taking them to church to be blessed. I was told that this is a "fertility" weekend and that is one of the customs. Apparently it's also the weekend where the people buy their plants for planting. I'm told that there's a park full of plants and flowers to sell this weekend. Rick and I will walk over there after church to check it out.

As we sat outside of the beautiful gothic Cathedral last night, we saw lots of Mexicans, many of them very old, approaching the Cathedral steps as if they were on a pilgrimage. We surmised that perhaps they were from out of the area on this long holiday weekend, and it was, for them, a real pilgrimage of sorts. The religiousness of the people here is touching.

We discovered a natural foods restaurant yesterday where we had supper. Rick had an eggplant burger, and I had a tofu burger. They were both on whole wheat buns, with lettuce, tomato and avocado on top. Along with mustard and ketchup on the side, there were small dishes of sauces we couldn't identify but that were delicious nonetheless. Our side dish was potato slices prepared in vinegar. Everything was delicious. We've had 3 meals since we've arrived here, and they've all been great.

We also found a little grocery store where we stocked up on some basics. We had to be careful about buying too much, because we had to carry everything quite a distance home. At least we have the makings of a simple breakfast this morning before we go to church. 

Speaking of church...I'd better sign off. It's already 6:40 a.m., I hear a rooster crowing, and I need to start getting ready. I'll write more later or tomorrow.

Hasta la vista,    Judit

02/09/08 - Dear Friends

02/09/08

Dear friends:

Although we were concerned we'd be delayed because of the big snow storm in Detroit this morning, we're now in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. For those of you who might not know, San Miguel is in the mountains, between Mexico City and Guadalajara. We flew into a town called Leon and everything seemed to go like clockwork until we realized that both my bags had arrived...and neither of Rick's had. Luckily he packed a change of clothing in his carryon, and we've been told that his things should come with the next flight from Dallas and be delivered in the morning. He's being a trooper about this...much more than I would have been under the circumstances. Please keep your fingers crossed that they arrive safely and intact. I'll keep you posted.

Antonio, a driver prearranged by our rental agent, met us at the airport. He helped us find where we (along with a number of others on our flight) needed to file a claim for lost luggage. The 3 of us then set out on the 90 minute ride from Leon to San Miguel.

Antonio was a sweetie, and patiently listened (and helped us out) while we did our best to communicate in Spanish. It was obvious that he was enjoying himself, and we all laughed a lot. He told us that not all tourists are willing to even try to speak Spanish, which surprised me. He complimented me on the volume of words I know and said he could tell I've been a Spanish student for quite some time. I'm confident that by the time we leave here, Rick and I both will notice a HUGE difference in our ability to effectively speak the language, as well as in our confidence level.

The casa we rented is multi-leveled and cute, in a Mexican, thick-cement-walls, stone-floors, brightly colored sort of way. Rick says he thinks there's 5 levels, but I'm counting 6. Some of those levels, like the foyer, the 1/2 bath off the living room, and the living room itself are nothing more then one room on that level. But there's literally stairs leading everywhere.

I'm sitting at a desk in the living room right now. The level several steps down lead to the large dining room and charming kitchen. And several steps down from that is a good sized foyer coming through the front door. Outside the kitchen and dining room is a washer/dryer combo in a closet with outdoor stairs that lead up to a level with a covered patio and a guest bedroom suite. Then a winding staircase goes up to the top floor - a rooftop patio overlooking the town - and our bedroom suite. This is a place we could easily get lost not because it's so big, but because of all the floors. I certainly hope neither of us sleepwalk while we're here. 

This evening we walked several blocks to a 4-table corner Mexican corner cafe where we had authentic Enchiladas Verdes. They were extremely spicy (our mouths burned for quite some time afterwards), but SOOOOO yummy. Rick had a couple of Veronica (?) beers, and I had a hand-squeezed lemonade and a bottle of water. The middle-aged Mexican lady who waited on us was sweet, the menu simple, and the food prepared to order. We will definitely go back there again. I want to try everything on the menu (all of about 8 things).

Afterwards we checked out a beautiful old church (there are a ton of Catholic churches in this town), as well as the "jardin" (town square). It's a ritual in Mexican towns for people of all ages from old to young to gather in this traditional area on Friday and Saturday nights, just to "hang out". Although our driver had strongly encouraged us to go to a bullfight being held tonight (apparently the torreador is famous, the ring is only a few blocks away, and it was an opportunity that doesn't come along often), we decided that we couldn't stomach the thought of watching a bull - much less 4 or 5 of them - being tormented and slain. So we didn't go and don't regret our decision. 

The jardin, like all jardins in Mexico, is the center of town. Since this is a mountainous area, the road back to our casa (and all the roads leading from the jardin) are up VERY steep hills. We certainly got our exercise walking home this evening. Between the stairs in the casa and the steep hills we're necessarily going to have to walk, I expect that we'll have "quads of steel" by the time we come home. 

Oh...the weather. Simply beautiful. When we arrived about 4 p.m., I was slightly warm in my light sweater and lightweight long pants. It was probably 80-ish. But by the time we finished dinner and walked down to the town square however, there was a definite chill in the air and I wished I had a light vest or jacket on as well. I'm told the evenings, at least right now, get down to about 50 degrees.  

So now we're back at our place. It's 8:40 p.m. (9:40 in Michigan), and we've been up since 4 a.m. It's been a looooooong day. Rick's up in bed reading already, and I need to wind down and call it a night.  Will write more tomorrow.

Love,     Judit  (pronounced "who-deet", which is Judith in Spanish)